Liverpool, 1999
We're in Paul McCartney's childhood home and my mom is touching everything he must have touched, the door knobs, the banisters. When we walk up the stairs to what was once his bedroom we make sure to stand in the doorway for a long time. It is like trying to follow a ghost, the ghost of someone who is still alive. At one point I am alone in the living room, listening to the tape on tour. It is saying how RIGHT HERE was where Paul and John wrote I Wanna Hold Your Hand, and the day Paul's brother watched John walk into the house for the first time, he thought he looked pretty cool. He was just some cool kid, coming over to hang out.
Italy, June 2000
It is so dry and hot, all I smell is dead grass and it makes my skin itchy. When I breathe, hot air fills my lungs. Nothing feels refreshing or different, but I love it. I think about how I could be naked and I probably wouldn't notice. I walk as far away from the villa as I can while still in sight of it. I play Ant in Alaska over and over on my headphones. I can't stop thinking about how far away I am from him, but it doesn't seem far enough. I know I have to go home eventually.
Italy, March 2003
I am walking on an overpass between small streets filled with pottery shops and I look down and see old brick buildings and a tiny bridge all covered in moss. It is like ruins in Rome, only completely deserted and partially filled with trash. Later I show my dad and he decides we have to "GET DOWN THERE!" and finally we find a way in. A stray dog runs after us, excited for company. My dad stands on the tiny bridge which I think is about to collapse but he assures me, it's hundreds of years old! This doesn't seem like a great argument but he's so happy. I think, this is what he looked like when he was a kid.
London, October 2003
The day I go through Notting Hill and walk alone in Portebello Market is the day I am happiest. I find an Internet cafe and get a cappuchino that is bigger than my face. I sit alone at the computer and write happy messages to my parents and my friends. There is an Italian guy my age next to me, smoking hand rolled cigarettes. He takes his headphones off, taps me on the shoulder, and offers me one. I think about it for a minute before I shake my head, smiling.